Day 65 -Friday 22nd July-Lowestoft to the River Deben

Lowestoft was a bit of a pit stop. It was a bit like floating on a pond in the middle of an industrial estate. The Reeds nautical Almanac rates places on  3 scales. The first is how easy it is to get in and out. The second is the range of facilities available and lastly an ambiance rating, based on whether its worth visiting. Lowestoft scored a 3 in all categories, so maybe I should have explored it a bit.

Lowestoft is one of the sea entrances to the Broads. I considered going in, but I decided to explore a couple of the East Coast rivers instead.The forecast for tomorrow is for force 7/8 winds and I was thinking where I could find some shelter and have a day ashore. The River Deben worked out well for me. It had been recommended by a few people and I could get there at high water, which was ideal. Its just North of Harwich.

The forecast was for Northerly winds becoming North westerly force 4/5. This was good for pushing me down the coast.Just south of Lowestoft is Southwold, which the harbour master at Wells rates second to Whitby. It's a shame its so close, otherwise it would have been worth going in. It certainly looked good from the water.

The Sizewll atomic power station is also pretty prominent.

The most distinguishing part of this bit of the cast though is the the River Ore and its associated shingle spit and structures.The two main towns on the Ore are Adleburgh and Orford.At the top of the navigable bit of the river is the famous Snape maltings, which have been converted into a classical concert hall. The river entrance is typically narrow then it doubles back and runs parallel with the sea.The island in the middle of the river has one of the largest Avocet breeding colonies in Britain.

Adleburgh is visible from the sea as is the lighthouse at Orfordness and what I assume are old army structures.I'm surprised they are not mentioned in the Pilot.They looked to me almost like Egyptian Pyramids.

There is a a Norman keep on the shores of the river, which I could just see over the army ruins. It provided an interesting juxtaposition of military defences separated by a few centuries.

The entrance to the Deben is between two sand bars and I tried to be clever by taking down the sails as I went in when I should have been doing some careful pilotage. I touched  the bottom and stopped and a small wave  splashed up the side of the boat and into the cockpit. That's the first time I've ever had water in the cockpit. I wound up the keel and got back into the channel feeling a little wet and silly

The tide was high and the water was level with the fields. Everything was flat and low lying. I made for the top of the Deben to Woodbridge. There is a small and very quiet marina next to the old tide mill. I could not be tucked away anywhere better if this gale does arrive.

Woodbridge is a quintessentially attractive market town. Its a sort of Topsham,Totnes and Melksham rolled into one.Walking through in the evening the smell of the curry houses and restaurants was heavy in the air.

I was expecting to start seeing houseboats as I moved into East coast river country. I have found a few here. They have gangplanks down into them, gnomes and post boxes. One of the boats looks like an old Dutch clog. If you can put up with the smell of the mud I bet it's a good place to live.

The town has a couple of museums and the Viking Sutton Hoo burial site  is across the river opposite the quayside. I'm going to be spoilt for things to do tomorrow. Reeds rates the Deben as 3stars for interest and one for easy of entry. Seems about right!